Antarctica. Simply. Magic.
Viking’s “Antarctic Explorer” - 13 days aboard the Octanis (including motivation for going, reviews, packing lists, tips, and plenty of penguin footage)
Why Antarctica?
Why did I want to visit Antarctica? The idea had been materializing for as long as I can remember. Early on it was perhaps about visiting all seven continents. Touching down upon that blob of white at the bottom of every map. Maybe just to say I had. Over the years the motivation evolved. I can’t remember why I read Worst Journey in the World by Apsley Cherry-Garrard, but after that, I was hooked (Obviously! I named my blog after it!). The book that ends with my favorite quote that I repeat again and again…that captures why I long to journey at every opportunity (whether it be a backyard hike or sailing across the Drake Passage): “And I tell you, if you have the desire for knowledge and the power to give it physical expression, go out and explore… you will sledge nearly alone, but those with whom you sledge will not be shopkeepers; that is worth a good deal. If you march your Winter Journeys you will have your reward, so long as all you want is a penguin’s egg.” – Apsley Cherry-Garrard,
I wanted to see the continent nicknamed “The Ice” for myself, the place that holds 90% of the earth’s fresh ice water supply, drops to temperatures so low to instantly freeze an exposed eyeball (in winter), has swallowed the most expert adventurers without fuss or warning, and is home to somewhere around 20 million penguins. The list goes on and on, but it has been an obsession since my dad read “Mr. Popper’s Penguins” to me as a young kid. Parents be warned!
And was it worth it? Could expectations be met for the place I wished to visit more than any other on earth? YES!! Unequivocally YES! Again, and again, and again. The only trouble now is that my appetite is merely peaked, not satiated.
Clouds offering the illusion of a sunset (since the sun really never sets this time of year).
Antarctica is magic. Plain and simple.
One of my favorites (and unanticipated) memories from Antarctica was staying up late – 10pm, 11pm, midnight…. In a cozy reading chair, enjoying never-ending twilight, soft, muted, surreal, as a continuous stream of icebergs, sometimes ginormous shelves, and other times small mounds of striking blue, offering resting places for a solitary penguin, maybe a pair every now and again. It was a conveyor belt of dream-like fantasy in gentle motion, accompanied by soft sounds of whatever Nordic playlist had been specifically curated to compliment this precise moment (that is the magic of Viking). This is my new vision of perfection that I will draw upon in rare moments of meditation. It is a happy place I never conjured for myself. The dream is better knowing it is real. I had to will myself away from this heaven every night reminding myself sleep was indeed necessary.
Off the deck around 9pm…. I was surprised to find how few late-night videos I took. But this gives a flavor of the nightly scenery….
11:20pm from my favorite reading/writing chair
I miss those happy moments on the boat. Maybe it is because I was almost always alone at this late hour (one benefit of an older demographic on the boat), giving a brief and entirely false sense of being alone at the bottom of the world with only a penguin to witness my existence.
And of course there were all of the more expected (but vastly more supreme than I imagined) experiences such as seeing a first penguin (then a millionth penguin, but still taking 1000 pictures of them), sitting in a boat with penguins jumping in every direction, touching land for the first time, seeing the first hump-back whale flukes and realizing you’re seeing a mama AND baby, being called to the front of the ship to see not one, not two, at least three orca pods surfacing and jumping, the wingspan of an albatross, the efficiency and company of an arctic tern, the massive crack of a glacier calving, trying to think of the right gem to describe the color of a glacier (sapphire? topaz? diamond?), clean, cold air, and the pure taste of thousands of year-old ice. Antarctica is magic and I know I barely scratched the surface. Take me back! Take me back!!!!
Fascinating Antarctica Facts
Antarctic ice holds 90% of the world’s freshwater ice and around 70% of the world’s total fresh water. We’re all at the mercy of Antarctica’s future. And if you haven’t heard of it (I hadn’t) Google “iceberg towing” – bizarre and terrifying!
One whale can absorb as much Co2 as thousands of trees.
Elephant seals can dive as deep as a mile (where pressure is crushing) and stay under for 2 hours! (also, check out their faces… ha ha!)
Ancient atmospheric bubbles have revealed 2.7-million-year-old Antarctic ice.
The deepest natural location on earth is the Antarctic Denman Glacier – 11,500 ft below sea-level.
The wandering albatross (that escorts you into the Drake Passage) has the largest wingspan of any bird (ranging from 8-12 feet).
It is estimated there are 700 trillion adult krill in the world (each measuring around 2 inches), but collectively weigh around 400 tones (roughly the same as the collective weight of all people on the planet). (and it is a good thing since they are the main food source for many whales, seals, ice fish and penguins – but numbers are rapidly declining and commercial fishing is increasing).
Due to polar drift, the South Pole moves around 6-9 miles/year. The discoverers of the south pole, Roald Amundsen’s, tent is likely buried under more than 60 feet of snow and is currently prohibited from excavation by the Antarctic Treaty.
However, it rarely snows in Antarctica. It is a desert after all! The South Pole gets around 1 in/year. We were lucky it flurried our entire first day on the peninsula!
The smell of penguin guano is ungodly.
Also, no matter how many penguins you see or how awful they smell, takes away from how endlessly cute and amusing they are.
How do I get to Antartica?
Over the years I googled phrases like “cheapest way to get to Antarctica” or “can I be a ship hand on an Antarctic vessel”. I expected it would take years, decades more to fulfill my dream.
When my father-in-law offered me a spot aboard the luxury Viking vessel “Octanis” I could hardly believe my luck. I lost sleep for days worrying it was all a dream. My excitement and anticipation were off the charts. Could this really be happening? In what felt like a horrible April Fool’s joke, our original journey was cancelled in 2022 because our ship, Polaris at the time, encountered a “rogue wave” about 58 feet high that damaged the boat and tragically killed a passenger. We were given the opportunity for a refund or rebook. Onboard Octanis, I inquired about predictive wave technology on our deck tour. I was assured it was first-rate…I suppose our journey didn’t test it. As tame as these luxury liners seem to be, there are still plenty of reminders you’re venturing into the most inhospitable places on earth. Over 20,000 people have reportedly lost their lives in the Drake Passage – I was amused on our second morning at sea to see a tiny sailboat bobbing about in the sun. I imagined Shackleton rolling his eyes at my Cadillac vessel…
Note: In my independent Antarctic research Viking was not on my radar because of cost. No trip to Antarctica is cheap, but Viking is on the steeper end. My father-in-law is partial to Viking, having traveled with them before, and now I understand why. As a cruise novice (and frankly very leery of cruises in general) I did not know what to expect. I’m happy to report out all I experienced and learned below (spoiler: Viking was a first-rate outfit. Not only because of the onboard comforts and quality of absolutely everything, but in my opinion, because of the staff. I don’t have anything to compare it to, but our expedition was staffed with first-rate professionals, scientists, students, adventure guides etc. who made this a quality academic experience, along with just a lovely trip – more below). I believe the framework of most Antarctic expeditions is similar: sail the Drake, cruise the Antarctic peninsula (weather permitting) for around a week, offer various activities (landings, kayak, etc.…), offer daily lectures onboard, return. The size of the boat limits where you’re able to travel (Viking was on the bigger end, which apparently limited where we could stop but as a first-time Antarctic adventurer, I was none the wiser and blown away each day). Other outfits I’ve heard are good: Poseidon, Quark, National Geographic. There are SO many! I’ve also heard the best way to find a “deal” is to hang out in Ushuaia (if you have an extremely flexible life) and look for a last-minute room. Rumor is this might get you a room at 50% off!
Releasing a weather balloon (fully biodegradable) to monitor ozone was one of the many “citizen science” experiences.
I would have accepted ANY offer to travel to Antarctica and must admit I wasn’t very picky about HOW. But having gone with Viking it might be hard to go with anyone else in the future. I was surprised how satisfied every single passenger (all 378) were at the end of our two weeks with Viking. The overwhelming review: “this was a trip of a lifetime, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.” When do you ever have that kind of consensus among nearly 400 people? When all is said and done, I think Viking is fairly priced (especially because it included all airfare and other transport from Salt Lake). *Note prices have gone up a bit since we originally booked in 2022.
Octanis is filled with art (both physical and digital) and includes a head-set guided tour of the beautiful pieces.
The Details:
Do your reading!!! There are so many fascinating books about Antarctica.
I had several reasons for wanting to visit Antarctica: visit the 7th continent, tread the ground of the great Antarctica explorers, cross the Drake Passage), visit the only “free” continent in the world that is not managed by a single nation, but rather a cooperative of 12 nations (proving international cooperation is possible), wildlife, geography/geology, and so many more! I think it is important to know your “why” and then research! Read books ahead of time, educated yourself! Antarctica attracts curiosity and deserves inquisition. Books I read beforehand included: Worst Journey in the World, Endurance, Last Place on Earth, Antarctica: An Intimate Portrait of a Mysterious Continent, Shackleton, and No Horizon is So Far (read this one onboard and was SO happy to finally read a book about female explorers!).
The ship is filled with books, puzzles, and thoughtful games to help while away the hours……as if any help is needed!
Antarctica is unusual (both politically and geographically). Antarctica is a rite of passage. The very fact it is governed by the 1959 Antarctic Treaty is astounding. The tenants of the Antarctic treaty are a model for humanity in my opinion. Highlights include:
· Art. I Antarctica shall be used for peaceful purposes only
· Art. II Freedom of scientific investigation in Antarctica and cooperation toward that end… shall continue
· Art. III Scientific observations and results from Antarctica shall be exchanged and made freely available
In the not-so-distant past, Antarctica was exploited in unimaginable ways. At various times, seal, whale, and penguin populations were almost wiped from the earth. Whatever reason brings a person to Antarctica, I hope they leave with the recognition of privilege and responsibility we have in visiting this magical place. In a world that exploits pretty much everything, Antarctica is different. Will it stay that way? All I know is that as I sail away, I’m left wondering if the past week that included day after day of endless penguins, sprinkled with numerous whale pods, arctic birds, dramatic turquoise glaciers, and sparkling seas were but a dream… Do your research. Antarctica deserves it.
My daughter sent Sunny the Panda along as an Octanis stowaway. She kept watch from our cabin window.
Shipmates:
Viking polar ships (Octanis and Polaris) accommodate around 378 passengers and 250 staff. As expected, based on cost and target audience, I guess the average passenger was over 65. There were a huge number of retirees and return Viking customers who learned about this trip on other voyages. However, I was nowhere near the youngest on the boat (the youngest person I met was 21 and had been to Antarctica before! Lucky!!). My best guess is that around 70 guests were younger than 45. There were a handful of couples my age traveling together (even a brother-sister duo). And there were a few other young folks who were on trips with their parents. I worried an older demographic might impede activities, but that did not seem to be the case. I was amazed how efficiently Viking got individuals of all ages and physical capabilities through activities. And if anything, there was an advantage for those wanting to do more activities as the week went on and some people began to fatigue. I had generous people offer their activity (kayak, submarine, special ops boat) to me at one point or another. I was also blown away by the determination of certain guests (and Viking’s willingness to accommodate) people of all abilities. A couple of people were in wheelchairs, dependent on canes etc. and managed to get around. I was glad to see such inclusiveness.
The ship’s “Aula” (traditional Norweigan auditorium/lecture hall) complete with a retractable screen that revealed the stern. We watched daily lectures in this room (also streamed to cabin TVs) and nightly documentaries.
I was motivated by my fellow guests who all took keen interest in the lectures, onboard science, and general information about Antarctica, as opposed to seeing the 7th continent as a largely untouched playground. Before leaving I felt a little disappointed our vessel didn’t offer the same variety of adventure activities (such as cold plunges, camping, skiing etc.) as other outfits, but my attitude quickly changed. Sure, I’d still love to find ways to explore more into the interior of Antarctica, but I have a deep reverence for this continent and am reticent to see it become too accessible (even if that means I will never venture further into her mysteries). I want to see Antarctica remain as protected as possible. There was a part of me that felt guilty about being part of the rising number of tourists visiting Antarctica (currently around 170,000 annually) and the change this will inevitably bring; however, hopefully it will be a positive change as people learn of the majesty, fragility, and importance of this continent.
Viking & Octanis –
I could live on Octanis forever and I am not a cruise person (sorry to anyone who is! It just isn’t my jam). The idea of being trapped on a boat with hundreds of people is the thing of nightmares for me. However, traveling to Antarctica pretty much necessitates a ship (there are ways to reach the continent by flight, but then you have no bragging rights to claim you’ve sailed the Drake). I was worried Viking was too big (378 guest capacity plus 250+ staff). But since I had no say in the matter, I went along with it. Wow! Am I glad I did. The Viking expedition line is tasteful luxury. Every detail from the handrails, etched elevators, cozily placed chairs, books, live music, tasteful background music, soft lighting, art galleries, puzzle tables, nooks for beverages and food, Nordic spa, educational “aula” etc. She is beautiful. In fact, it is hard to criticize a single element. A few highlights:
Staff – The teams from the captain and leadership group, expedition guides, restaurant staff, cabin staff etc. is absolutely top rate. Teams are so knowledgeable, friendly, personable (it took me days to realize they all knew my name because of an app that has a photo of every passenger that they apparently study from the moment you step onboard). They seek feedback and try to accommodate every request. The service is very equitable. Everyone is treated like the most special guest in a family home.
Customer Service – I am curious to know what customer service training they go through because it is impeccable (and they have tough clientele since the trip is so pricey).
Food – outstanding! There is a more casual “world café” with buffet style options that change daily as well as two on-board restaurants. All food and beverage is included (unless you want higher end booze and/or spirits). The team knew I was vegan and prepared special items daily (including fresh-baked vegan croissants stuffed with jam!). The head chef, Wayan, is Indonesian and assured me he was familiar with and not put out by a vegan diet. He made me feel like he appreciated the challenge, and came to chat with me almost nightly to make sure I enjoyed my food.
Amenities – the atmosphere of the ship is calm, practical, and oh-so Scandinavian. Rooms are outfitted well with comfy beds, an enormous window that can be rolled down for fresh air, drying closets for wet gear, heated bathroom floors, and two attendants who clean your room morning and night. The spa was first-rate with an outdoor hot tub, steam room, sauna, “snow room” and jacuzzi pool. There are also three pools on the back of the ship (cold, tepid, and hot). Living quarters are quiet. Several dining areas provide options between more formal and casual. And all expedition areas are tucked in the depths of the boat for easy access to the water.
Activities – Viking offers daily landings (weather dependent), kayaking, Special Operations Boats (SOBs), and zodiac cruises.
Drake Passage –
Ah, the dreaded Drake Passage. Will you encounter the “Drake Quake” or “Drake Lake”? We lucked out with weather in both directions. Although we encountered winds of 30+ nautical miles, the brilliant Octantis gently lulled, only inducing fatigue and some of the best sleep I’ve had in years. As someone who has a history of motion sickness, I’m amazed how well the anti-nausea patches work. I highly recommend them (side note – the patches deteriorated my close-up vision, but it was restored shortly after removing the patch.)
Since I won’t experience the “Drake Quake” (at least not this year) I can only speculate how I would have done (staff were breathing sighs of relief that we had such a smooth journey – many of them repeat this journey November-March and know each crossing is a gamble). Had things gotten rough, I was prepared to visualize Shackleton crossing in a mini rowboat with 6 other men, using only a sextant for navigation as the horizon bobbed up and down between crashing waves, the water-logged boat reeking of something far worse than penguin guano. Things could always be worse!
Although you’re in open water, arctic birds accompany the vessel the whole way. Varieties of tern, albatross and others dance alongside the windows, providing consistent entertainment. A crossing I one time feared is now something I wish would not end.
A rare blue sky day early in the trip. We experienced mostly grey skies and flat light, making photography a bit tricky. But the rare occurrence of snow and abundance of wildlife: 4 varieties of penguin (gentoo, adelie, chinstrap, magellanic), hump back, orca, fin whales, crab seal, and elephant seal, along with thousands of birds, more than distracted from photography conditions.
Climate –
I’d heard Antarctica is the “driest” place on earth, but that didn’t really hit until I’d been aboard the ship for a few days. I really wish I’d brought more face moisturizer (it sounds silly, but I got really uncomfortable!). I thought I’d brought enough for 2-weeks + and I was wrong. A couple of days into the trip I caught my reflection and was startled to see crepe-y lines bunched around my eyes. I’d aged a decade and was horrified! My face could not get enough thick moisturizer and I ended up buying a pricey moisturizer from the ship spa because I was so uncomfortable. On the other hand, it is easy to keep things clean because everything dries fast. There aren’t any bugs to contend with and after two weeks, gear still smells fresh (also helped by a launderette in each cabin floor/wing).
Itinerary
They warn you before you come, and it proved true: don’t get attached to a proposed itinerary. It will change. We set out for the western side of the Antarctic peninsula, and after two days, rerouted east to the Weddell Sea. The exciting aspect of this journey is that all alternatives are good ones. It was exciting to have to change course. We ended up with 3 landings that few staffers on the ship had been to before. Enthusiasm was high!
Where we ended up going:
Day 1-2 (Drake Passage) – lectures, downtime, exercise, etc…
Day 3 – Chiriguano Bay
Highlights: First glaciers (a huge one calved right in front of a zodiac), tasted sea ice (and learned to observe different ice qualities), first kayak attempt (we were quickly pulled from the water because weather seemed to change – to the untrained eye conditions seemed fine to me, but the expedition leads are cautious).
Day 4 - Damoy Point -
First landing! The team set up a proximity to walk within. There were many gentoo penguins nesting, skuas trying to steal their eggs. We walked inside the Damoy Point hut. Later we took our first Special Operations Boat (SOB). These speed boats are capable of being dropped from the sky and landing upright. They have shock absorption seats and can basically whisk you anywhere in any condition. We saw flocks on gentoos leaping through the water.
Day 5 – Breaker Island –
Day started with an SOB where we saw several humpbacks surfacing in a foggy morning. Our next activity was a stoke of luck. Viking messed up our submarine booking and the excursions was up in the air. Two women overhead me ask about it and rushed to say they didn’t want to go! We got their spots and headed out in a zodiac to the submarine. Many people reported not seeing anything, but that wasn’t my experience. I was prepared to see microorganisms, which is precisely what we saw. Moreover, the opportunity to go beneath the Antarctic surface was exciting enough! I was excited we went down 200 feet, but groups at other locations went down 1000 feet! I was a little jealous but realize that is the beauty of this journey – you never know when luck will strike and you’ll see that special animal or get that unexpected experience. It is an exercise in letting go and taking what comes your way. Which is exactly what happened next. Two more ladies offered me their kayak excursions and I was more than happy to jump on it. We paddled through pancake ice and slush. We maneuvered good sized icebergs and even saw a napping crab seal.
Day 6 – Hope Bay/Esperanza –
This was the day we had to divert to the eastern peninsula/Weddell Sea side of Antarctica. Hope Bay was paradise. Home to thousands of Adelie penguins, you literally couldn’t avoid seeing a swimming penguin from any outlook. We took an incredible SOB away from the bay and saw bright blue bergs with penguins leaping on and off them. After, I took a zodiac near land where there was an Adelie nesting area. These gorgeous creatures were unphased by our presence. Marching up and down the hillside, sliding on bellies, jumping into the sea…. Marching in uniform order across an ice field. They were EVERYWHERE! Which was magical and a bit misleading because apparently Adelie penguin populations have declined severely (70%) in the last 40 years. A true arctic penguin in their little black and white tuxedos, the Adelies had my heart.
Another interesting thing about this landing was the Argentinian outpost. Apparently, it is the only place Antarctic residents live. The first baby was born here, and the only gunshots fired in anger were at this point.
Day 7 – False Bay
We took another landing at False Bay. We walked across an isthmus (accompanied by gentoos), through sand littered by a seal carcass and a smattering of bones. The glaciers in the distance were dramatic and pierced by the basalt peaks all around. On the far side of the beach, skuas sat in wait (although they apparently attacked an expedition guide who got too close to their nests earlier in the day)
We were on our way to the next and final destination and the captain came on the loudspeaker: orcas spotted right in front of our boat. Everyone rushed to the bow. At first there was one, two…. The beautiful, deadly creatures showing their distinct heads as they glided over the sea. And then three, four, five! More? There were too many to count! Pods of mamas and babies seemed to be clustered with a solitary male in pursuit. The boat was buzzing with energy. This was a rare siting. A baby orca leapt from the group seemingly showing off. Another (or maybe the same?) slapped its fluke in prominent display. They didn’t drift off in the distance. They played on both sides of the boat for at least 30 minutes. At one point it looked like our boat was about to hit one!
Day 8 – Fort Point
Our final stop. There wasn’t a huge amount to see out my cabin window, but the port-side view included a prominent, castle-like jutting out of the water. Sharp, jagged stone dressed in a green moss. The landing took us to a little inlet at the base of these beautiful peaks. Here we interacted with all three types of penguins (gentoo, Adelie, and the adorable chinstrap) who were busy waddling around 3 giant elephant seals. We tried to be mindful of keeping 15 feet from the penguins, but sometimes they’d walk right up to us! On the zodiac ride back, we were alerted to fin whale flumes. Sure enough, during lunch I saw the massive blow of the enormous fin whale. They never came terribly close, but they were there. It is all here.
Days 9-10 (Sailing back through the Drake)
Taken by a fellow passenger on a submarine dive at Hope Bay.
Packing:
The ship provides outer layers for your convenience (Viking provided a Helly Hansen heavy-duty shell, light layering puffer, waterproof pants, and substantial boots. You get to keep the two jackets. *Tip: many people who didn’t think they’d ever wear a heavy-duty jacket again abandoned the coats, which would have been nice to know ahead of time! I would have tried to snatch some up for other family members since they tend to retail for around $500).
Layers:
Fleece leggings
Moisture-wicking top
1 set of wool base layer (I wore the wool top every excursion, and used the wool leggings over my fleece on particularly cold days)
Liner gloves (I brought heavy ski gloves I never wore – I would have been better off with two sets of liner gloves because they often got wet taking pictures on excursions).
Phone lanyard
Dry bag
Earplugs (depending on your roommate)
Books (debatable because Viking has endless libraries around the boat!). I was glad I brought this compact wildlife guide.
Note: we spent two days in Buenos Aires on the front end of the trip. Although BA showed warm temps, it was surprisingly cool, and I ended up wearing Antarctic layers for my city sightseeing.
Note: Viking is a high-end vessel and some people got quite dressed up for dinner. I had one nice sweater but could have used a second. I wore fleece pullovers, and nobody said anything. I also wish I’d brought a pair of slip-on shoes. I ended up wearing sandals to dinner many nights (which was fine since the ship is very warm).
Other:
Pre-departure (Buenos Aires to Ushuaia) – We met the Viking team at the designated hotel in Buenos Aires the night before departure. The process was simple and professional (I think I was worried they’d make us wear a Viking flag on our head or something….I’m not used to tours). If you want to check bags you put them outside your room by a designated time (which means anything you need for the night needs to go in carry-on). Departure morning is an early one – dressed in the lobby ready to go by 5am. From that point you get passed from Viking rep to Viking rep on a bus then chartered plane to Ushuaia. This assured the flight wasn’t full and I had ample room to spread out and sleep during the 3.5-hour flight. In Ushuaia a local tour guide accompanies you on the 12ish minute ride to the boat. You stop briefly to snap a few pics at the giant “Ushuaia” tourist sign (if you want, but of course you want to!!). At that point, you go straight to the boat and only explore Ushuaia if time allows, and you have enough motivation (see “Ushuaia” below).
Viking App – Once onboard, staff explain how to download and use their onboard app. Since Viking tries to avoid using paper (yay!), the app is essential. They update the daily itinerary and your excursion times through the app. It was highly effective and invaluable.
Excursions – Viking had us book them ahead of time, but then announced everything would change once we were onboard (which makes sense since the itinerary was fluid). It was still important to book the activities ahead of time because it indicated to Viking what you were interested in/how many activities you wanted to do. Although times changed, I still got a chance to do every activity I requested. Also, you can always cancel (much to the delight of fellow travelers who will be happy to scoop up your open spot). *Note: we had a hiccup with our Submarine booking (as did many others on the trip). The Viking team on land gave different information than we received onboard and long story short, our “guaranteed” submarine expedition was not booked. Fixing this issue was the biggest “stress” of the trip. Although we got to a point where the onboard staff said they’d do everything they could to get us on the sub, there were a lot of factors that had to fall into place to make that happen. In the end, another passenger heard me chatting with staff and offered us her booking because she and her partner didn’t want to go. This was pure luck. I truly hope Viking fixes the issues with the sub booking because there were a lot of unhappy guests.
Submarine – speaking of….was it worth it? Commercial submarine rides are becoming more popular. Our submarine excursion was supposed to be included (Viking has since changed protocol and now charges $500pp). There are two schools of thought: if you’re already forking out tons of money, what’s another $500? On the other hand, it is a lot of money for a short ride (around 30 min). Most people reported enjoying the experience, but “not seeing anything.” To this, our pilot responded: most people think a penguin is going to come up and high-five the sub. Get real, people! It may not seem like you’re seeing much but look harder. The frigid seawater is FILLED with microorganisms. We saw sea stars, sun stars, krill (others saw millions of krill!), sponges, spider-looking animals, some saw octopus, etc. What you see is in the eye of the beholder, I guess. I absolutely loved the experience, but I am also glad I didn’t have to pay an extra $500…As we chit-chatted on the way to the Antarctic Sea floor we asked our pilot about his experience. Expecting a background perhaps with the Navy or other important water-oriented profession, we were surprised to hear he was previously a mortgage broker who saw a brochure about becoming an Antarctic submarine pilot. 400 hours (and presumably many talks with his family later), he was driving small groups of buzzing tourists on an excursion of their life. No excuses about finding something you love to do!
Onboard lectures – Many vessels, including Viking, offer first-rate scientific lectures daily. We had a chance to interact with scientists of all specialties ranging from geology to marine life, avian specialists (including penguin counters), etc. Additionally, there was an educational movie to watch each night that was topical to Antarctica. (Highlights: Judith Scott Photography, FjordPhyto, Secchi Disk Foundation, GLOBE Observer - Clouds, HappyWhale, eBird, iNaturalist)
Documents – in addition to issues booking my submarine, I also had issues submitting my required medical documents with Viking. I was assured I’d be asked for them onboard and printed them accordingly. It was good to have hard copies of everything, but once onboard nobody checked any logistics.
Onboard Shop – there is an onboard store with daily hours. Items included “Amundsen” brand thermals, vests, jackets etc. Cute Antarctica hats, a few prints, books etc. Selection is somewhat limited but high quality (and, as expected, highly priced). If you want any other souvenirs, you need to find a way to get to Ushuaia and/or there’s limited supply at the airport. There were a lot of grandparents searching for stuffed penguins for their grandkids at the end of our trip…
Ushuaia – from our proposed itinerary I expected to have a few hours to peruse Ushuaia. This was not necessarily so. Since we happened to be one of the first buses to reach Octanis on departure day, we were allowed off the ship but required to be back 2 hours prior to the written departure time (5pm). Always motivated to see something new, I bolted off the ship almost as soon as formalities were complete onboard (receiving your onboard keycard, which is also how they keep track of you by scanning you on and off the boat, seeing our cabin, etc.). It was about a 10-minute walk through the shipyard to the town center. I quickly walked up and down the main street. Almost everything was closed due to a local holiday. But I enjoyed the beautiful weather, sweeping mountain views, local art market, town art and sculptures, and the fantastic Vegano restaurant. What a find!! I had a vegan empanada and croissant as a final meal before setting out into the Beagle Channel. There are cheap stuffed penguins and goofy “end of the world” chachkas to spend money on, but don’t expect anything high end. It was fun sending off a few postcards and getting my passport stamped with an unofficial “Antarctica” stamp (which I stamped myself at the local tourism office, which made it feel truly as unofficial as possible – note* Viking also helps you send a postcard and offers a semi-more official Antarctica stamp onboard).
Each time you returned from a landing, a bio-wash was required…
Tips
Carry-on in case luggage is lost (or at least carry essentials on). I consider essentials: base layer, warm socks, liner gloves, hat, neck gator.
Bring extra face moisturizer! It is so dry in Antarctica.
Use anti-nausea patches for the Drake crossing. My side-effects included a very dry mouth, fatigue and temporary loss of up-close vision. A nurse onboard told me I could try using only half a patch.
Drink lots of water!!!! Especially if you are using the anti-nausea patches because they tend to give cotton mouth. Also, bring a reusable water bottle. The ship minimized plastic water bottles (which is good considering the amount of microplastics they’re discovering in marine life), but why not avoid them altogether?! Plus, keeping a filled water bottle encourages hydration.
Less is more. I packed minimally because I carried all my luggage on, but I still didn’t wear about half my clothes. I reused the same gear for excursions daily and changed to casual clothes between expeditions (this was especially easy because of the launderette on each floor, which I used twice in two weeks).
Verify what your vessel provides – our package included a down base layer, substantial parka, rain paints and boots. You’re required to use their gear, especially for landings because there is a strict bio-cleanse protocol for anyone returning to a ship. Basically, you feel like you’re going through a human carwash to ensure no biomass, large or small, make it back on ship.
Phone lanyard – I brought a plastic version that required vacuum sealing. It didn’t work terribly well, and I kept my phone out of it most of the time. The boats are excellent at keeping you and your stuff dry, so a simple way to keep a water-resistant phone around the neck would suffice.
Photo gear – if you’re bringing a more substantial camera than a phone, I highly recommend bringing (or renting) a telephoto lens. Although you get very close to wildlife, the shots from my new Sony aiIV were very limited by my inability to zoom. I loved this fStop camera bag that I kept safely tucked away in a dry bag when needed.
Workout clothes and a swimsuit! Many vessels have spas with lovely swimming pools. I ran and/or made use of the ship’s virtual exercise classes (yoga, pilates, etc.) almost every day! And especially during the Drake crossing since the ocean was relatively calm (it made the treadmill go up and down, which I assume mimics hills… ha ha).
Prepare to be warmer than expected! The ship was kept very warm and I wish I had a casual t-shirt or two for daytime wear.
Wifi: we were connected the entire time, for better or worse.
A skua trying to steal gentoo penguin eggs. This skua flew inches above my head as it dove towards the nest. The penguins successfully defended their rookery (this time).
There you have it. I’ve been to Antarctica (thanks to my travel partner pictured here - Lee Ebeling (aka “Roald”) and it was a dream! What more is there to do in life? Ha ha! Let’s get serious. I haven’t seen Shackleton’s grave yet!
A chipstrap at Fort Point. We saw chipstap, gentoo, and adelie penguins on this beach hopping between elephant seals.
I’ll never look at ice in the same way…..each peace is thousands of years old. The texture tells a story of age and history.
A day in the life aboard Octanis: gear up, head out, wear a goofy spa hat, get ready for dinner…….rinse and repeat…
Black brow albatross guiding us back through the Beagle Channel (shot by my father—in-law, Lee Ebeling).
Final approach back to Ushuaia.
