Oaxaca Part II: Puerto Escondido
*For info on Oaxaca City click here.
Puerto Escondido has long been a choice vacation spot for Mexicans and surfers, but recently with the global fascination of Oaxaca, “Puerto”, as it is fondly referred to has gained popularity. In contrast to the relatively high and mountainous area of Oaxaca City, the coastal area of Puerto boasts dramatic landscapes of windswept palms, harsh waves, and bold architecture.
Our family drove the 152 miles between Oaxaca City and Puerto Escondido. But don’t be fooled by this relatively short distance, the journey took 7 hours, and we made good time. The towering Sierra Sur Mountains stand between the two destinations, an adventurous climb that is journey in and of itself.
Getting There – there are two options to get to Puerto: drive or fly. I’ve done both. Flying is very straightforward from Mexico City (Aeromexico flies direct, and is about an hour-long journey. You can also book a small plane directly between Oaxaca City and Puerto but do your research as I understand there are weight restrictions on these tiny planes, and it may be hard to transport car seats or large luggage). If you decide to drive and want a more leisurely experience, you can book a driver at a cost (I hear approximately $200 each way). We rented a minivan that comfortably accommodated our family of four + a couple of friends.
The drive itself is beautiful, but not for the faint of heart. As you leave Oaxaca City, you wind through countryside for about an hour before you begin ascending the Sierra Sur range. We drove the 131 down to Puerto and the 175 back to Oaxaca. In both scenarios you climb to 9000ft, crawling slowly over the never-ending speed bumps and dodging street dogs. At points the fog moved in, greatly limiting visibility. I found the scenery stunning (I felt silly for not realizing how mountainous the region is – the interweaving trails left me hoping to return someday to hike). The return journey on the 175 had more scenic village towns including the famed San Jose Del Pacifico, otherwise known as the magic mushroom capital of Mexico, and San Mateo Rio Hondo, also known for exceptional hiking. Bottom line: if you’re an adventurer (and you and your kids can handle a VERY long car ride), driving might be for you. Otherwise, explore flights.
Where to Stay – Puerto offers all kinds of accommodation. There is an ever-growing list of strikingly beautiful boutique hotels (similar to Oaxaca). Double-check restrictions because some of the most beautiful do not allow children. There is also an excellent selection of VRBOs, which was what we went for on my first trip to Puerto. This option was perfect for a friend/family trip. The town of Puerto can be seen in half a day (or skipped altogether), and our focus was to be on the beach. Our VRBO, slightly south-east of Puerto, had a beautiful, kid-friendly (i.e. shallow area) pool directly on the beach. We took a couple of runs to the local market and Chedraui for supplies and largely subsisted on homemade guacamole, fresh fruit and cerveza. It was heaven.
The second time I visited Puerto was for a wellness retreat with Beautiful Nomad. That wonderful experience deserves its own post, but I will note we stayed at Airbnbs near Casa Wabi and Hotel Escondido (if you have money to spare, I hear Hotel Escondido is worth a splurge). There are great rental options at many price ranges in this area too.
The nice thing about staying slightly south of Puerto is that we were that much closer to exploring the southern beaches, such as Mazunte (see below).
What to do
Very little – if you pack provisions, you could easily spend a week lounging between a VRBO pool and the ocean. However, it should be noted the ocean in Puerto is intense. Even the waves that appear less violent are deceptive. There is a huge undertow making this stretch of water dangerous. My younger daughter, 18 months at the time, was a constant flight risk as she loved charging towards the ocean with her new-found walking skills. This caused anxiety for me the whole trip. Although we brought a pack-n-play (many VRBOs do not provide them because they quickly get destroyed in the climate), which she could not climb out of, I had nightmares of her walking towards the water during the night. Extra caution is needed to take young kids to this area. Also, the waves crash through the night, and while some in our party found it soothing, I found the intensity a bit nerve-wracking. On the flip side, we enjoyed magical sunsets and a couple of mind-blowing lightning storms. Everything in Puerto felt a bit dramatic making it apparent why artists flock here.
Puerto – Unless we missed something of significance, there isn’t much to see in Puerto. There were more than a couple “quinceanera” shops, leaving my daughter begging for a giant, poufy party dress. We settled on a large unicorn piñata we used for a birthday party at our VRBO. I understand there are a couple nice swimming coves close to town, but we opted for the quiet of our VRBO.
Casa Wabi (and surrounding) – The ~ 45 minute drive to Casa Wabi was worth it. The structure and art collection are beautiful, and it is fascinating to learn about the work the foundation does in the community to promote art and education. The tour navigates indoor and outdoor spaces, which provided variety and held the attention of my young kids. Book your tour ahead through their simple online booking portal.
Southern Beaches – We made one other excursion to see the southern coast. It is amazing how quickly the landscape turns to jungle as you realize how close you are to the Guatemalan border. Mazunte is a funky, yogi-infested beach town boasting a plant-based soft-serve shop (the owner matter-of-factly told us he realized vegan ice cream was more lucrative since the yogis were the only visitors during the height of the COVID lock-down, which made us laugh). There is a golden-sand beach cove with turquoise water (although the waves were too intense for swimming when we were there) and plenty of dining options. The landscape and atmosphere is different enough from Puerto that it is well-worth the excursion.
Eating – Our plan from the get-go in Puerto was to cook for ourselves, which we largely did. There is a huge Chedraui in town for all cooking essentials (and much more….it is basically a giant Walmart). There is a collection of small shops including fresh fruit and veg just south of Puerto. The area even includes a vegan shop called Canela Tienda Vegana Y Organica. Stop here for fresh produce, pressed juice, and other goodies. Another worthwhile stop is for lunch at Cocofam. This small vegetarian spot, really an outdoor lean-to, offers some of the most refreshing drinks I’ve had anywhere (vegan chilate, hibiscus/guava and cucumber/lemon “aguas”) and the pink tacos are special. If for no other reason, stop to meet the extraordinarily friendly owner who clearly pours his heart into everything Cocofam produces.
Bottom Line: If you’re looking quiet, stress-free waters, Puerto is not the best choice (try the Yucatan). However, if you are looking for culture, inspiration, wild landscapes, and a more “off the beaten path” feel, you just might want to check out the drama of Puerto.
