3 Nights in Salzburg
Old Town Salzburg is the perfect sized European city for littles and bigs alike. We had a few unplanned days on a bigger European trip and decided to detour to Salzburg for 3 nights. We are so glad we did! I remember enjoying Salzburg as a backpacker many years ago. The ability to go back with two little kids in tow reminded me what this magical destination has to offer; castles, abbeys, rolling hills, toy shops, pretzel stands, and mini cobblestone streets make for a real-life wonderland. And in addition, delicious food, loads of history, and beer halls create a win-win for bigs and littles alike.
What we loved about Salzburg:
Walkability/Size – Salzburg is walkable for young and old (our group spanned ages 2-69). This town is stunning at every turn: snowcapped peaks, architecture, a winding river, the choice is yours. We spent a lot of time in the town center (the kids loved running around the cobblestone streets), but an 800m walk in any direction takes you to a new point of interest/view. Unlike other old, beautiful European cities, the organized containment of Salzburg old town made the area accessible and safeguarded against fatigue for both my kids and my mother. Additionally, only authorized taxis are allowed in the area, offering minimal vehicular traffic, and allowing kids to safely run free.
Activities
Strolling– half the fun of Salzburg is wandering aimlessly through the streets. Who knows what delightful café, art, or shop you might stumble upon.
Shops –
I am not sure if my kids or I enjoyed the toy store and Christmas/Easter store more. The quality of Steiff stuffed animals bring back childhood memories. And the endless selection of ornaments at the Christmas/ Easter Store brings joy to even the Grinchiest Grinch. Honestly, I am not a holiday decorations person (each holiday my daughters beg me to lean into our decoration game, which is limited to the basics (a couple pumpkins, one Christmas tree, one menorah, you get the idea), but the selection in these stores is unreal. The ornaments also make great gifts and you can ask the salespeople to personalize the ornaments by writing names/dates on them.
My mom and I took an afternoon outing and also discovered Golden Soul. A mother-daughter curated shop with high-end, eco-friendly brands for women. We had an excellent time snagging a few special items and chatting with one of the owners who was a delight. It was a special spot for a ladies-only afternoon.
We also enjoyed Saint Charles Store, an apothecary founded in Vienna with a line delicious-smelling ecological products. I’m a sucker for this kind of stuff – made for great gifts too!
We didn’t focus much time on shopping and surely missed some great gems, but the fun part of Salzburg shopping for me was walking without intention and stumbling on a gem.
People Watching on the Plaza. Pick your spot! You can’t go wrong grabbing a glass of wine, beer, or hot cup of tea and people-gazing. The plaza closest to our accommodation even offered a delicious vegan pizza from Osteria Patricio Fellini.
Sound of Music – Yep, this is about as touristy as it gets, and we loved every minute. First, my 4-year-old adores the Sound of Music, which is partly what put this destination on my list of potential side-trips. The tour is likely what you would expect: a long line of tourists queue for large bus, participants range from unabashed SOM fans to those clearly dragged along by a partner, but by the end everyone is cheerily singing “Do, a deer…..”, you get the idea. The entire bus was delighted by my 2-year-old who surprised us with being the most enthusiastic singer in our group. The guide is well-versed in both Austrian and SOM history, and the trek to Mondsee Abbey necessitates a gorgeous 1.5 hour-long excursion into the Austrian hills. The 4-hour tour takes you to most of the movie’s most significant scenes (gazebo, Von Trapp house, lake, abbey where Maria gets married, trees where kids hang etc.). I’m not a tour fan, but if you love SOM, this one is for you!
Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülin Beer Hall. Established in 1621, and not to be missed for an evening experience for beer and non-beer drinkers alike. As vegans, we happily ate pretzels, pickles and beer. There are endless choices for non-vegans.
Tourist Attractions/Museums – of course there are endless tourist attractions, including excellent museums in Salzburg. Our time was short, so we only visited the Toy Museum (small, but great for young kids especially on a bad-weather day), and Mozart’s house. You could certainly spend weeks properly seeing museums, but if your time is short (3-4 days), I would pick the top 2-3 that call to you and spend the rest of your time outside (weather permitting).
Where to Stay – the first time I was in Salzburg we stayed out of the city, which worked well for my then backpacker-budget. But this time, especially with young children, we stayed in the heart of Old Town at a fabulous VRBO. I highly recommend this accommodation (book early!) and could have easily whiled my days away in this cozy spot, sipping tea and reading books as the lovely streets of Salzburg whirled around me.
Time of Year – We were there very late September, which made for low crowds. The weather was cool (perfect for walking) and only rained one day. The threat of rain closed some of the plaza cafes earlier than usual, but otherwise it was a great time to be there. Leaves were just changing! Shoulder seasons are always a gamble, but I would usually trade iffy weather for hot, crowded streets.
Food:
We took advantage of cooking dinner at our Airbnb most nights (there are a couple of fully stocked grocery stores in Old Town). But we had a few good meals out:
Uncle Van Street Food – Delicious ramen!!! Make a stop!
My Indigo Staatsbrücke – filling, healthy, tasty bowls
EISL EIS 1. Bio-Schafmilcheis-Salon österreichs – a couple of nice vegan gelato options
Augustiner Bräu Kloster Mülin – specializing in schnitzel, chips and beer, but a variety of food stand provide options. It is worth visiting this historic beer hall. It took us about 30 minutes to walk from the Old Town Center.
